The bizarre resort on Greece’s most well-known island affords a real style of the nation.
After years as a journalist and even longer as a journey obsessive, I’m not often blown away by a spot – however Kivotos Lodge in Santorini did simply that.
I’ve spent a very long time in Greece through the years, from the Peloponnese to barely touched locations within the Saronic Islands.
By some means, I hadn’t made it to arguably the nation’s most well-known place. Now I’ve, I can solely say how glad I’m.
Santorini is all the pieces you’d think about – all white-washed buildings with cyan blue accents, surrounded by excellent magenta bougainvillaea.
Kivotos appears to be like slightly completely different.
The second department after Mykonos, the Santorini enterprise was opened by the Michopoulos household 5 years in the past – and it stands out from the remainder of the buildings within the picturesque village of Imerovigli, in the easiest method.
Though it affords the sundown views made so well-known by postcards and trending movies on TikTok, Kivotos is, not like each constructing in its neighborhood, painted black.
Strolling up and down the seemingly countless slim stairs alongside the cliff, it’s exhausting to overlook – and that’s even earlier than you’ve stepped contained in the gates.
Inside, the suites and villas are actually a surprise to behold they usually stand out simply as a lot because the black exterior.
A tribute to Santorini’s volcanic panorama
I arrive after darkish at the start of September after taking only a transient look at Kivotos’ Instagram. Actually, I had no thought what to anticipate, however strolling right into a recreation of a volcano was not it.
This distinctive expertise, the resort’s charming welcome staff advised me, is a tribute to the island itself and its very wealthy historical past.
Santorini was devastated by a volcanic eruption within the sixteenth century, which perpetually formed its rugged – and now legendary – panorama.
Within the subsequent centuries, locals made the many of the incident, constructing cities and villages which cling to the cliffs. The black sand seashores under are surrounded by caves.
My suite at Kivotos may be very a lot impressed by a cave formation, with vast, curved ceilings – and the lighting is solely exceptional.
I can safely say I’ve by no means entered a resort room to be enveloped by purple all through. Once I specific my shock, I’m advised the suites had been designed to make guests really feel as in the event that they had been staying inside a volcanic cave, an expertise paying homage to the Santorini of centuries in the past.
After settling in – and understanding it’s solely potential to vary the lighting to any shade I desired – I step exterior my door to soak up the well-known Santorini vista. It’s nonetheless spectacular even within the darkness, because of the clearness of the skies exhibiting off a large number of stars.
Taking a glass of locally-made wine into my private Jacuzzi, I then luxuriate till my pores and skin turns prune-like.
Pattern fish ready with Santorini’s volcanic ash
Regardless of the pure pleasure of that have, it’s on to the duty at hand.
I’mhere, largely, to be taught in regards to the culinary richness of Santorini by way of the resort’s personal restaurant, MAVRO.
The eatery itself is spectacular sufficient, with a glass terrace excessive on the cliff with essentially the most beautiful view of that well-known sundown.
However then comes the meals, the brainchild of a staff led by Dimitris Katrivesis, the restaurant’s head chef.
At its core, he tells me, the intensive, spectacular menus “started as a solution to rejoice the unbelievable flavours of Santorini and showcase a brand new wonderful eating expertise for company on the island”.
It goes deeper than a celebration of the island although, with each dish served paying tribute to Santorini’s very make-up.
The delectable Fossilised Shrimp attracts its inspiration from the various caves, the place historical fossilised creatures had been as soon as found. “We’ve captured that essence on this dish, bringing the previous to life in your plate,” Dimitris explains of the beautiful shrimp dish.
Going additional nonetheless, the Haiboshi Mackerel is paired with native, white aubergine and miso.
I be taught that the mackerel, which enhances the opposite flavours oh so completely, is definitely ready utilizing a technique which entails Santorini’s volcanic ash.
To me, that’s genius; to Dimitris it’s nothing extra difficult than “including a delicate depth that evokes the island’s volcanic panorama”.
Whereas the Cyclades islands are world-famous for his or her fish dishes, freshly harvested olive oil and salt straight from the Aegean sea are must-tries, too.
Dimitris combines these treasures right into a luscious pudding – the Aegean Sea Salt Ice Cream.
Drizzled with olive oil and topped with caramelised pine nuts, it makes for the proper mixture of salty, candy and creamy -“a refreshing tribute to the flavours of the Cyclades”, Dimitris says.
Digging in, it definitely appears to me as if I get an actual style of the island group – and that’s one thing Dimitris is thrilled about.
“I’m proud to say that about 70 per cent of our components come from Santorini and the encircling Cyclades. Sourcing domestically is extraordinarily necessary to us,” he tells me. “It permits us to help the area people and guarantee our dishes are contemporary and stuffed with flavour.
“Utilizing seasonal components permits us to create distinctive and genuine dishes that genuinely replicate the spirit of the island.”
Might Santorini grow to be the gastronomic capital of Greece?
Whereas I problem you to search out anybody who doesn’t like Greek meals, Santorini shouldn’t be referred to as the gastronomic capital of the nation – but.
Whereas the northern port metropolis of Thessaloniki formally took that title earlier this yr, when UNESCO designated it as a metropolis of gastronomy, Dimitris is assured Santorini can comply with in its footsteps.
“I imagine Santorini has the potential to grow to be the culinary hotspot within the Cyclades. The island is blessed with scrumptious produce, akin to its famend tomatoes, fava beans and distinctive wines,” he tells me. “These components not solely have a definite flavour but in addition replicate the wealthy agricultural heritage of the area.”
Together with his staff, he says he’s pushing the boundaries of conventional Greek delicacies, with the hope of permitting Santorini to “shine even brighter on the culinary map”.
Dimitris provides that he needs to take his company on a foodie journey which is “not nearly eating, however about connecting with the island’s tradition”.
As I head again to my superb suite and straight again into the Jacuzzi – I’m a water signal, don’t blame me – I deal with myself to 1 final glass of the luxurious native wine.
At this second, I perceive precisely what Dimitiris had been saying – MAVRO actually is a style of Santorini itself, and one I’m itching to strive once more.